UE or UB Error Code: Unbalanced Load
What it means: The washer has detected an uneven or overloaded drum. This is a built-in safety feature designed to prevent vibration damage to the machine and your floors.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Stop the cycle and open the door (WM front-load models may pause automatically)
- Remove some items or redistribute the load evenly around the drum
- Make sure bulky items like blankets aren’t clumped on one side
- Check that the washer sits level on the floor—use a spirit level and adjust the feet if needed
- Restart the cycle
When to call a technician: If the error returns after rebalancing and levelling the unit, worn drum bearings, suspension springs, or shock absorbers are likely to blame. These components degrade over time and require professional replacement—not a part you want to leave unattended, since continued use accelerates wear on the entire drum assembly.
OE Error Code: Drain Failure
What it means: Water is not draining from the tub. This is one of the most frequent LG washer complaints and usually has a straightforward cause.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Check the drain hose at the back of the washer for kinks, bends, or crushing
- Inspect where the hose connects to the wall outlet and clear any debris
- On models with a drain filter (typically behind an access panel at the bottom front), remove and clean the filter cartridge under running water—lint, coins, and small clothing items are common culprits
- Check inside the filter cavity for additional blockages
- Reinstall the filter securely and run a test cycle
When to call a technician: When the hose is clear and the filter is clean but water still won’t drain, the drain pump itself is likely failing, or the pressure switch that signals an empty tub has stopped working. Both require professional diagnosis and repair.
IE Error Code: Water Inlet Problem
What it means: Water is not entering the tub at the expected rate, or the inlet valve is stuck or defective. The washer cannot fill properly and will stop mid-cycle.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Confirm that both hot and cold water supply valves behind or beneath the washer are fully open
- Inspect the inlet hoses for kinks, twists, or pinches
- Turn off the water supply, disconnect the inlet hoses from the washer, and check the mesh screens inside the connections for mineral buildup or debris
- Rinse the hoses under clean running water if needed, then reconnect and run a test cycle
When to call a technician: If the valves are open and the hoses are clear, the inlet valve solenoid is likely defective or the water level sensor has failed. Solenoid replacement requires proper tools and electrical know-how—an incorrect installation can result in leaks or continued fill problems.
LE Error Code: Motor Locked
What it means: The drum is not spinning freely, or the motor has stopped responding. Either something is physically jamming the drum or the motor relay has failed.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Stop the cycle and unplug the washer for 5 minutes, then restore power (a full reset clears minor electronic faults)
- Open the door and try rotating the drum gently by hand—it should turn with light resistance
- Grinding or hard stops suggest a foreign object lodged between the drum and tub
- Close the door and run a rinse-and-spin cycle to see if the motor responds after the reset
When to call a technician: A motor that won’t respond after a reset, or a drum that remains mechanically locked, points to a failed motor, damaged motor coupling, or a faulty main control board. Do not force the drum by hand—doing so can turn a component failure into structural damage.
dE Error Code: Door Error (WM Front-Load Models)
What it means: The door latch sensor is not registering a secure close, or the door lock mechanism itself is faulty. Front-load washers require a confirmed door seal before any cycle will begin.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Fully open and firmly close the door—listen for a distinct click from the latch
- Examine the door gasket (rubber seal) for lint accumulation, detergent residue, or debris that might prevent a flush close
- Wipe the gasket clean with a damp cloth, paying attention to the folds where buildup hides
- Confirm nothing is caught in the door opening, then attempt the cycle again
When to call a technician: When the door closes cleanly but the dE code persists, the latch switch or door lock solenoid has likely failed. These components keep the washer water-tight during operation and must be replaced correctly to maintain that seal—an improper fix risks a flooded laundry room.
FE Error Code: Overflow
What it means: Water has filled the tub beyond its normal operating level. This typically indicates a water level sensor malfunction or a stuck inlet valve that won’t stop admitting water.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Stop the cycle immediately and unplug the washer
- Manually drain excess water if your model includes drain filter access at the front
- Allow the unit to sit unplugged for 10 minutes, then reconnect and run a short test cycle on the lowest water level setting
When to call a technician: Overflow errors almost always trace back to a faulty pressure switch or a stuck inlet valve—neither of which resets on its own. Left unaddressed, repeated overfilling will damage the drum, motor, and control board. This is one error code that warrants a prompt service call.
tE Error Code: Temperature Sensor Fault
What it means: The thermistor is producing incorrect readings, so the washer cannot regulate water temperature accurately. Wash quality suffers and certain cycles may refuse to run.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Run a cycle using cold water only to see if the error clears
- Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restart
- Confirm that both hot and cold supply lines are connected and flowing properly
When to call a technician: A tE code that survives a reset points to a defective thermistor. This sensor is typically integrated into the heating element assembly or tub wall, and accessing it safely requires disassembly that goes beyond basic troubleshooting.
PE Error Code: Pressure Switch Failure
What it means: The washer cannot accurately detect the water level in the tub. The pressure switch—a small component connected to the tub by a thin hose—tells the machine when to stop filling and when the tub is fully empty.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Locate the pressure switch tube (a narrow hose running from the tub bottom toward the control board) and check for obvious kinks or blockages
- Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, then restart
- Run a test cycle on a standard setting
When to call a technician: If the PE code returns after a reset, the pressure switch itself needs replacement. Because this component directly controls fill and drain cycles, a malfunctioning switch can cause overfilling, incomplete draining, or both—compounding repair costs if ignored.
CE Error Code: Overcurrent
What it means: The main control board has detected excessive electrical current in a circuit and triggered a safety shutdown to protect internal components.
DIY fixes to try first:
- Unplug the washer completely for 10 minutes
- Confirm the wall outlet is functional by testing it with another appliance
- Plug the washer directly into a wall outlet—never through a power bar or extension cord
- Restore power and run a short cycle
When to call a technician: A CE code that returns after a proper reset usually signals a failing motor, a shorted control board, or a defective component drawing too much current. Electrical faults of this nature require professional diagnosis with proper testing equipment—DIY investigation risks additional component damage or personal injury.
WM vs. WT Models: Key Differences
LG’s WM series are front-load washers equipped with additional sensors for door security, water temperature, and drum balance. Because the door must form a water-tight seal, these models are more likely to display dE codes and door-related faults. WT series top-load models use simpler door mechanisms—reducing door-lock errors—but share the same drain, inlet, and motor systems as their front-load counterparts.
Most error codes in this guide apply to both series. When electrical or mechanical faults appear on either type, professional service is the right call.
When to Call SureFit Appliance Services
Basic troubleshooting resolves many LG washer error codes quickly. But when a code persists after you’ve worked through the steps above—or when opening panels and tracing hoses isn’t something you want to tackle—it’s time to bring in a professional. SureFit technicians carry decades of combined hands-on experience with LG front-load and top-load models and arrive prepared with the parts most commonly needed for same-visit repairs.
We offer:
- Appointment Availability
- A straightforward $85 + HST per appliance diagnostic fee (plus HST) waived when you proceed with repairs—$14 less than the industry average
- A 90-day warranty on all repair work
- Service across the GTA, Simcoe County, Grey County, York Region, Durham Region, and within a 200 km radius of our Keswick, Ontario base
For a full overview of what we cover, visit our LG appliance repair page or explore our complete washer repair services.
Ready to book? Call us at (647) 977-2626 or schedule an appointment online.
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